Please do not report me to the Chemistry departments that might have me tarred and feathered.I read Walt’s post about molasses the other day and thought about the rust research and solution I came up with recently. ![]() The above descriptions are simplifications. The special difference is that once Chelation has got the iron oxide rust off the metal surface it does not continue and remove pure iron. This process has a special name: Chelation. It "buddies up" to the rust molecule at the metal surface and carries the still combined iron and oxygen atoms away together into the liquid. The original part would disappear eventually. All the metal could eventually disappear this way. Strong acids continue to "eat" iron atoms off the metal surface, turn them into ions, and these ions wander off into the liquid. Strong acids can do this with iron atoms alone. ( scientificly: the acid helps the iron and oxygen ions dissociate from the metal surface) I did start blasting again, but then stopped in disgust and sold the damn thing.Īcids "eat at" iron oxide on the surface of a part and send the oxygen off into the liquid in one direction, and the iron in another. Next morning I came out and every piece of metal in my garage was flash rusted. After sandblasting the entire front clip (not fenders), over several days with a Harbor Freight sand blaster, I left an open, empty gallon container of muriatic acid in the garage over night one night. This is why I sold my '72 SSP I was going to clone into a '71 RR. And this was just vinegar, not nearly as strong as typical store-bought dilute muratic acid. More about the fumes: if you use it in a closed space like a garage, the fumes can attack everything metal in the area, if the exposure time is several hours or more.Īfter I left my shop for the day, a quart or two of vinegar leaked on the floor and put surface rust on every piece of steel in the room by morning. I used to use that years ago to restore beer cans since it would SLOWLY remove the rust & leave the paint/ink on the cans alone for the most part.ģ) the items will flash rust instantly after neutralizing If you aren't in a big hurry, you "might" be able to find some oxalic acid. Sulfuric is WAY too strong & hydrocholic (even 12% muriatic) is too strong too in my opinion, but yo might get away with it if you watch the parts VERY closely. I've always used some type of phoshporic acid based product. fyi- it's good to have some baking soda around to neutralize any acid you get on your skin or on on concrete/other metal. I've never used ospho, but based on it's name it's an ortho-phosphoric acid based product (phosphoric acid).Īll of these acids can be "neutralized" with baking soda making them OK to go down the drain in most places. ![]() ![]() In order of "acid strength", sulfuric acid (battery acid is about 15% sulfuric), hydrochloric (muriatic is 12% hyrochloric acid) > phosphoric acid > citric acid. Stronger = faster, but not really "better". The needle scaler handled right can add a "shot peened" strengthening effect to steel parts.ĭon't weaken a steel part's strength while "pretty-ing it up."Īll acids attack/remove rust AND the base metal to different degrees. My brother favors using a pneumatic needle scaler I bought a gallon of Safest Rust Remover 4:1 concentrate but have not experimented with it yet. There are links in my previous posts on rust removal on Evaporust about cheap extenders like vinegar of expensive rust removers. Osphro and Naval Jelly have been around for a long time and used by the US Navy Roughly this can mean breaking at 20% of the load you would expect. HBC can cause a steel part to fail far below its yield strength,Įven below its fatique strength. I need more coffee this morning but i seem to foggily remember that Muriatic acid (HCL) can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" cracking even long after it has been used.
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